L'ikat indonésien
In Indonesia, the art of textiles is one of the richest and developed in the world and ikat remains one of the most delicate and elaborate traditional techniques of the archipelago.
In Indonesia, the art of textiles is one of the richest and most developed in the world, and ikat remains one of the most delicate and elaborate traditional techniques of the archipelago. Like batik, ikat holds a predominant place in Indonesian culture.
History of ikat
Elderly woman weaving an ikat in Bajawa, on the island of Flores, photo © Tony Prince via Shutterstock
The ikat technique is believed to have originated in China and was spread throughout the rest of Asia with the development of maritime trade in the region. Besides, the term "ikat" comes from Indonesian and means "to tie, to bind".
This craft is found in Central and South America, Majorca, Uzbekistan, and other Asian countries. In Indonesia, the Lesser Sunda Islands are highly renowned for their traditional ikat production. This form of craftsmanship is also found in Java and Sumatra.
Like batik, ikat remains a social symbol and once served to establish the social class to which an individual belonged. Some peoples still consider ikats as essential parts of young girls' dowries.
The technique of ikat
Ikat production in Bali, photo © Yuki Takahashi via Shutterstock
To create their patterned fabrics, weavers first draw the motif by dyeing the warp threads beforehand. They thus bring out all the colors appearing in the design, repeating the operation as many times as there are colors. Furthermore, they protect the parts to be preserved from the dye by tying threads on the areas to be retained. These designs then form during the weaving process.
Weaving is done on a loom, and the fibers used vary depending on the region. They can be silk, cotton, or wool. The edges of the motifs remain blurred, particularly because of the shifts that occur during production. The difficulty lies in the precision required for the proper arrangement of the threads and colors.
As one might expect, this is long and laborious work that can take several months. Indonesian ikats were thus very precious commodities, once exported by Dutch colonists. The most renowned originate from the island of Sumba. The hinggi ikats from this island display vibrant colors, with motifs featuring animals and human figures. Similarly, you will not find the same ikats in Bali as in East Timor.
Generally, the motifs change depending on the region. Certain variations in technique may also appear. Some peoples add gold threads, for example.
No matter where you are in Indonesia, we highly recommend that you admire this form of art. If you travel to the Lesser Sunda Islands, visit the small traditional villages for the chance to witness the creation of these textiles. Ikat is truly worth a closer look!
